The craft flourished under the patronage of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, whose court in Lucknow became synonymous with luxury, refinement and artistic excellence. Mukaish work can still be seen today in royal portraits housed in Lucknow's Picture Gallery, where Nawabs and courtiers are depicted in garments embellished with this shimmering technique.
How It's Made
Unlike Zardozi, which is heavy and densely layered, Mukaish embodies understated elegance. Thin, flattened metallic wires are hand-inserted into fabric using a fine needle, creating tiny dots or patterns that catch the light without overwhelming the garment. The process is entirely manual and extraordinarily time-intensive, which is why genuine Mukaish work has become increasingly rare.
"Every piece featuring Mukaish detailing is a tribute to the hands that have kept this craft alive against the tide of mass production."
Two Signature Styles
- Fardi Ka Kaam — meaning "dots" — is the most recognisable form of Mukaish, characterised by delicate scattered metallic points across the fabric.
- Kamdani — a technique where the metallic wire is connected to a length of thread, allowing artisans to create more intricate motifs and detailed patterns.
A Dying Art
Today, only a handful of artisans, primarily based in the narrow lanes of Chowk in old Lucknow, still practice authentic Mukaish embroidery. The craft is often used to accentuate Chikankari garments, adding a subtle shimmer to the shadow-work embroidery Lucknow is best known for.
Why It Matters to Be Hira
At Be Hira, we honour Mukaish not as decoration, but as living heritage — a quiet shimmer that carries forward centuries of artisan skill. Every piece featuring Mukaish detailing is a tribute to the hands that have kept this craft alive against the tide of mass production.